Haindlkarhütte

I was looking forward to the climb. Firstly, after about a fortnight of doing little else except imbibing copious quantities of food and wine on our journey through the south of France to Austria, I knew I needed some serious exercise. Secondly, I’d never done any serious hillwalking outside Scotland, so I was keen to…

Styrian castles

If you don’t visit, Austria is quite an easy country to forget about. A smallish nation in the middle of Europe, it’s known for mountains, skiing, Viennese waltzes, and perhaps not much else. Remember, though, that less than a century ago it was one of Europe’s five great powers, an empire that stretched across much…

The Admont monastery

Admont is a quiet little town in the Styrian mountains that, while pretty and a great base for exploring the Gesäuse National Park, wouldn’t normally be big enough to register much on a week or so’s visit to Austria. We have a pile of great friends there (why we do is a whole other story that…

Sausal: Austria’s wine region

I never really considered Austria as a renowned wine producer – or beer producer to be honest, though it does both excellently. The major wine producing region is Sausal, in the south of the province of Styria and near the border with Slovenia. Look across the rolling green hillsides with vineyards as far as the…

A day in Graz

Austria’s second largest city, Graz, is an easy place to like. It’s got all the basic prerequisites for a good city. It’s pretty. It has a river running through it and a hilltop castle lording over it. It has trams. It has gorgeous architecture. It’s got plenty eateries, drinkeries and shopperies. It’s got Hitler in…